Bourgogne Pinot Noir Franc de Pied 2023

Don't let the "Bourgogne" on the label fool you — this is one of the most fascinating bottles in Charlopin's cellar, and arguably the best-value wine in the entire range. Franc de Pied means "own-rooted" — vines planted directly into the soil without American rootstock, the way all European vineyards were before the phylloxera louse devastated the continent in the 1870s. Today, franc de pied vines are extraordinarily rare in Burgundy: a handful of plots, planted in sandy soils where the phylloxera cannot survive, tended by a small group of obsessive vignerons who believe — with good evidence — that ungrafted vines express terroir more purely and produce wines of greater depth.

Charlopin is one of those believers. This cuvée comes from his own-rooted parcels, and the 2023 shows exactly why the extra effort matters. The colour is a luminous, medium ruby — classic Pinot Noir transparency. The nose is immediately expressive: fresh red cherry, wild strawberry, pomegranate, a lift of rose petal, and that elusive "forest after rain" note that only great Pinot delivers. Behind the fruit, there's a subtle earthiness — damp stone, a hint of cured meat — that gives the wine unexpected gravitas for its appellation.

On the palate, this is where the franc de pied story becomes obvious. There's a directness, an energy, a pure line of fruit that village-level wines often lack. Silky in texture, medium-bodied, with bright cherry acidity and the softest whisper of tannin framing a surprisingly long, mineral-tinged finish. It drinks like a wine from one tier up — not because it's concentrated or extracted, but because it's complete.

Note: from non-grafted vines planted in Marsannay "Champ Forey"; only <450 bottles will be produced

Country/Region: France, Burgundy

Grape Variety: 100% Pinot Noir

Bottle Size: 750ml

Ratings: BH 88–90

Best serve slightly cool — 14–15°C is ideal — which brings out the aromatic lift and keeps the fruit vivid.