Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits Blanc 2023

The 2023 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Blanc from Hoffmann-Jayer is a serious white Burgundy hiding in a modest appellation. It comes from old vines, between 55 and 75 years, planted around 355 metres up in the hills near Magny-lès-Villers, and it's a blend of roughly 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Blanc — the Pinot Blanc adding roundness and texture. The nose is flinty and precise, with white orchard fruit, a touch of lychee, honey and white flowers.

On the palate it's medium-bodied and cleanly cut, with candied-citrus fruit married to vibrant acidity and a chalky, mineral finish. The winemaking is thoughtful and low-intervention: hand-harvested, whole-bunch pressed, fermented in a mix of 350-litre barrels and sandstone vats, with no fining, one racking and only a light filtration. The oak is measured and sits underneath the fruit rather than on top of it.

This is what a top Hautes Côtes producer can do — a white with real tension and length that drinks well above its village status, and one that stays fresh in a tropical climate.

Country/Region: France, Burgundy
Grape Variety: 70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Blanc
Bottle Size: 750ml
Ratings: NA

Best serve at 12 – 13°C

Food pairing: Cantonese steamed fish with ginger and spring onion; sashimi and white-fish sushi; Teochew steamed pomfret.